Do it Yourself Filipino CrossBow

Another fun Weekend Project

   

 Many years ago I was stationed in the Philippines
where I picked up a hand crafted crossbow. It impressed me
so much with it's engineering and ingenuity I decided to
try my hand at making one.

You can expect to shoot accurately over 100 feet
With the bow held up at 45 degrees the bolt
should travel 200 feet.
This will be great for small game or
slow Zombies.



Knowing the selection of quality bow material is limited
I settled on the fact that this project will reflect what's
available versus what best. 



A trip to Lowe's Home Center netted me
2 pcs.      1" x 6" x 4'      Poplar
1 pcs.  1/4" x 6" x 4'   Red Oak
1pcs    1" x 2" x 6'      Red Oak
and Titebond water proof glue.


(Note: this is enough wood to build two crossbows) 

I started by laminating the 1/4" oak between the two pieces of Poplar with glue, clamped and left to dry.   

Clamping to a flat surface will help insure a

straight stock.  You can see I drew out the basic shape

once I scaled up the design in order to ensure a better fit

and better performance.   

  Try to keep the edges flush when clamping.

While waiting for the glue to dry I copied the dimensions

from the original bow and scaled it up.

 Below is drawings for the rough cutting of the bow.   

(not to scale) 

I drew out the basic shape then cut it on the band-saw. 

After cutting the top view I cut the side view

and was left with the basic shape.

(Do Not Try to Bend the Bow Until Completely Done)

Using a Rasp file I rounded the edges and shaped the curves

from out of the straight cuts until I had

what looked like a workable bow. 

Cut a tapered bevel into the back side of

the bow that will become the wedge lock

that will hold the bow in place.

 I shifted work to the stock

where I cut out the basic shape on the band-saw.

With a wood rasp file I shaped the stock

to mimic the original.

(Note:  When your done the wood chips should pile up to your ankles) 

Stock Contours

stock length is  29 1/2"

Markings for the first cut in fitting the bow to the stock

The size of the first cut is based on the width of

the bow at the tip.

Before you go any further attempt to fit the bow into

a scrap piece of wood so you know what to expect.



Take you time fitting the bow using a file

 and test the fit often.

With the bow fitted use a router to cut the bolt groove

about 1/4" deep and 1/4" wide. 



Use a dowel wrapped with sandpaper to smooth the groove. 

Mark bow for bolt and flights. 

And cut 

Now for the Fire Control Mechanism

The original used thin scrap metal forged into shape.  

Trigger Detail

I cut the trigger from 1/4" steel and the Pins

are from a 1/8" welding rod.

The trigger pocket

Testing the trigger for fit 

 Assembling of the Fire Control Mechanism

Making of the bow string 

(Note: The how to will show up on a later post) 

The Bolt is a 3/8"  dowel with blue tape feathers

(Bolt length can vary)



Tying the bow can be a challenge here is the original

knot.

I'd tell you how to tie it but I'm struggling with it

As I said, the amount of wood will make two crossbows.

Here is a sneak peek at the next one.

Raw footage from one of the first test shots. 

(I wanted to take a second shot but the knot loosened up)



If you don't see all the information needed to build your own

please leave a comment so I can update.

Thank You and Good Luck



Wooden Serving Cart

A fun weekend project  

I found a design concept I liked and 

just needed to scaled it to fit my needs

The tray frames are made of 3/4 x 1 1/4" with

a dado cut to affix the 1/4" random width slats 

Experimenting with the angle for the

uprights 

Making wheels can be very challenging

I used spline joints to hold the spokes 

and wheel to each other  

All glued together 

Cut the outer circumference along 

with center hubs

Then I added support gussets to 

help finish them off

With a coat of finish on it 

I am quite pleased 

Do it Yourself Custom Slip Cover

Turn Plain into Elegant 

I'll show you the steps I took in order to 
make this custom cover.  

You'll need about 3-4 yards of quality material 

and a piece of foam large enough to cover the seat.

  

Use chalk or magic marker to draw an outline

around the seat allowing a 1/2 overhang.

Cut the foam with an electric carving knife

or a machete. 

(note I came up a little short on my foam but will adjust if needed)

To keep the process simple, I clamped a

piece of material over the back of the 

back-rest then cut it to fit the outline of the chair. 

I tend to cut large and trim back as I go

to get the best fit.

When cutting allow about 1" overage to compensate 

for seam and width of the chairs frame. 

Cut a second piece using the first as a pattern,

stitch them face to face, 

turn right-side out and test the fit 

With the foam on the chair I used

straight pins to hold the material in place 

while I marked the curve of the back rest

with chalk.

Cut the back rest cover to fit. 

Follows along your chalk line but not on it

remember to allow for the salvage edge.

Rough cut a piece of material for the seat cushion,

to ensure a good fit slide it under the back rest cover

and mark the curve to match the backrest.

Cut seat cover out allowing about 1/4" overhang

from the size of your foam.

(note; the tails on each side are there to navigate around the chairs frame)

Sew seat cover to back rest cover.

The tails on each side of the seat cover will provide

a easier transition for sewing on the seat-side.

Next is to cut and sew the side piece of the cushion

it's 5" wide and wraps completely around the chair 

over the top of the back of the back rest.

Unfortunately I deleted the photo

Hem the bottom edge of the cushion side

with a 3/4 overage to allow for a draw string.

Test the fit

The cover should lay flat if you got

it right. I got it close enough. 

Measure for length and cut skirt material,

pleat and pin in place as desired   

Bast stitch pleats in place   

Sew a length of welt cord and attach it to

the skirt, finish the ends with a gusset.

Fold over gusset and stitch

Check the fit 

Mark the cushion cover

with chalk to keep a straight seam line for the 

skirt. Then stitch the skirt to the line.

You will want to add a tie down

to the inside seam where the back rest cover

meets the seat cover, tie around the

chair back slots it will help

 keep every thing in place. 

After pressing with an iron 

it's ready for use.